Khadi Saris

In the wake of the Indian freedom movement, Mahatma Gandhi introduced ‘khadi’ to the nation, as a symbol of nationalism, thereby discouraging the use of foreign fabrics and goods. Spinning wheel “Charkha’ was reintroduced and promoted in the villages and towns in India. He wanted to promote an alternative clothing system through cloth and clothing towards an economic self-sufficient (swadeshi) India, powerful enough to establish self- government (swaraj).

Gandhi motivated Indian women to adopt the plain ‘khadi’ saris and become a part of the ‘swadeshi’ movement. Gandhi managed to convince a large number of women to spin as well as wear ‘khadi’. However, many women were reluctant to wear khadi as it was sold as unprocessed white fabric. Kasturba, Gandhi’s wife, too was not in favour of wearing stark and unattractive fabric as a sari. Gandhi was of the view that women should adopt khadi as their attire and enter the political scenario without appearing sexually provocative or immodest. Wearing white clothing was also considered inauspicious as it was associated with widowhood according to Hindu religious tradition. Eventually, Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay came up with the solution and got khadi dyed in orange, hence the name ‘Orange Brigade’ was given to the women's volunteer corps.

Emma Tarlo, an anthropologist, has recorded that Sarladevi Chaudhurani, wife of the nationalist leader, Pandit R.D. Chaudhurani and the niece of Rabindranath Tagore, was the first upper-class woman to embrace the plain, austere ‘khadi’ sari in 1920. Many women freedom fighters accepted the ‘khadi’ sari worn with simple, loose styled blouses. The khadi saris were promoted by freedom fighters like Kasturba Gandhi, Sarojini Naidu, Kamla Nehru, Aruna Asaf Ali and Vijayalaxmi Pandit. The hand-spun and hand-woven fabric signified an important message of embracing nationalism and boycotting western ideas and influences among the society.

Once again, Khadi sarees became popular with designers such as Sreela Debi, Rta Kapur Chishti, Rakesh Thakore, Neeru Kumar, Gaurang Shah, and Anavila Misra, who made them attractive and desirable for women. The sari, a flat piece of fabric, has intrigued Indian women and the world. It is seen globally as truly Indian, although worn by women in Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh as fashionable attire. It is the largest category for handloom weaving in our country.

Naveli Khadi is an endeavour to exhibit 75 Khadi saris specially designed with the Khadi Institutions to commemorate the momentous occasion of 75 years of Indian independence.

Credit:

Prof. Dr. Sudha Dhingra

Director

Centre of Excellence for Khadi