Kitabi Keeda- embracing nature’s whispers
At the heart of our sensibilities lies a deep connect to the natural world. Only if we remain in touch with that feeling will we be able to realise sustainability in its truest sense. This collection of overlays inspired by Indian Insects blends Indian folklore and ecological significance to exhibit the idea that the “Heart of Conservation lies in Conversation.” Insects, often overlooked, hold a profound significance in our ecosystem as a whole. Inspired by their captivating beauty, symbolic representation in local literature and crucial role in nature, the apparel range “ Kitabi Keeda” was created.
JACKET-1 BEETLES
The artwork is a literal inspiration from the vintage book illustrative diagrams about insects or the entomological sketches. It is a nudge to raise awareness for a conscious effort to document ecology and India’s cultural stories in India , taking Hindi numerals and placing the outlines of a few of the common yet impactful beetles of our country. The colour popping illustrative embroidery against a neutral, stone like base just as in nature is supported by a footnote in the lining.
१. RED VELVET MITES
Known by various names across Indian subcultures such as Teej, Buddhi Maai (Old Lady), Rani Keeda(Insect Queen) etc., this beetle is revered in India . It is believed that the name of the festival “ Teej” comes from this small red insect that emerges from the earth during the monsoon season. Hindu myths believe that when that happened, Parvati visited Shiva’s residence. This sealed their connection as man and woman. So, it is considered that the spotting of a Red Mite would hint at the arrival of Monsoons. Traditionally, elders in India would even consider it a misdeed to step on insects during this time calling it like a disciple of Lord Shiva as it would be fun near the plants that are associated with Shiva.
२. JEWEL BEETLE
From the colourful wings of these beetles being historically used to embellish fabrics as part of the embroidery to people from the state of Rajasthan getting nostalgic about childhood tales of spotting the rare beetle and domesticating the insect, these are true stories of a subconscious empathy towards ecosystem’s smallest creatures.
३. DUNG BEETLE
These stargazing tiny beetles are very fascinating as they can roll 1,141 times their own body weight. making these dung beetles the strongest animals on Earth for their size. Dung beetles play an invaluable role of removing dung from the surface and make sure the flies and parasites that breed in dung are not prominent. Burrowing, aerating and mixing the soil increases its nutrient content as well as improves the water holding capacity of the soil. New species discoveries continue to be made in India with one of the latest being the stunning metallic blue dung beetle from Tawang district of Arunachal Pradesh.
४.LAC INSECT
The art of making lac bangles is unique to India. Lac, a gummy substance is acquired from a resin secreted by the insect Laccifer Lacca, on trees in the forests of India — the twigs of specific host plants like Ber, Kusum and Palash.
The cultivation of lac, has been a traditional practice and a significant source of income for a million households in the states like Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Madhya Pradesh, Odisha and West Bengal. It is used in paint, electrical, automobile, cosmetic, adhesive, leather, wood furnishing and other industries, thus helping provide natural industrial products.
JACKET 2- MOTHS
Shama, an Urdu word which means a candle or a lamp that burns is often used with Parwana, a moth. Together, they signify ‘a moth to a flame’: to be irresistibly and dangerously attracted to something or someone. Call it curiosity or Perwana’s eternal love for the flame is a beautiful and well-known motif in Urdu literature. Poets believe that true lovers are like these moths who die in the flame of a beloved’s love.
Asad Badayuni famously in this couplet emphasised this insect’s unexplained need to the face the light, as if suggesting a human’s incessant passion for things despite the consequences.
سب اک چرا غ کے پروانے ہؤنا چاہتے ہیں
عجیب لوگ ہیں دیوانے ہونا چاہتے ہیں
सब इक चराग़ के परवाने होना चाहते हैं
अजीब लोग हैं दीवाने होना चाहते हैं
Everyone wants to be like the moth to a light,
Strange are those people who want to go loony
JACKET 3- BUTTERFLIES
Titli in Hindi, Chitrashalabham in Malayalam, Phulpakharu in Marathi or Pokhila in Assamese.
According to Hindu mythology when Lord Brahma — the creator, created the world he made flowers, trees, fish, animals and insects, but his personal favourites were the plants and the flowers. One day to his horror, Lord Brahma found all plants had been stripped off their leaves. Soon, he found the culprit. It was a caterpillar, who confessed that it was so hungry it could not resist eating all the green and tender leaves. Now the creator was angry and he cursed the caterpillar that from that day it would become like a stone with no legs, no wings, no mouth to eat! The caterpillar turned into a lifeless lump instantly, hanging from a branch. Soon the other animals could not bear to see the caterpillar’s condition and they requested the Lord to forgive the caterpillar. Brahma finally relented and changed the curse to last only for a few days, after which the caterpillar turned into a beauty with wings.
Butterfly as a motif is present in almost all aspects of a Hindu Bengali weddings, because they symbolise marriage.
JACKET 4 -ANTS
Hindu holy writings teach that ants are divine, the first- born of the world, and ritually the anthill represents the earth. Goddess Kali who is revered as a fierce and powerful deity who embodies strength and protection. The arrival of a black ant is believed to be a subtle indication of the presence of Goddess Kali within your home. It is seen as a divine message, reminding you of her watchful gaze and her willingness to safeguard your household from any harm. Anthropomorphised ants have often been used in literature to represent industriousness and cooperative effort.
The jacket holds a poem penned by the acclaimed Hindi poet and writer, Harivansh Rai Bachchan.
The translation:
You cannot take your boat across the sea
If you are afraid of the waves,
The one who tries
Never fails.
The tiny ant carries a small grain in its mouth,
Climbs up on the wall, slips and falls a hundred times,
The determination in the mind fills your body with courage,
Then climbing up and falling down does not hurt,
Ultimately, its (the ant’s) efforts do not go waste,
The one who tries
Never fails.
In this poem too, ants are held up as a good example for humans for their hard work and the inherent trait to persevere.
JACKET 5-Dragonfly:
Dragonflies predating dinosaurs, can slice through the air in a blur at a high speed of 10–15 metres per second . These nature’s very own flying machines travel across continents , almost magical In its abilities. It’s travelling allure makes us strike a parallel with an ‘Uran Khatola’.
An Uran Khatola (Hindustani: उड़न खटोला, اُڑن کهٹولا) is a flying vehicle in the traditional folktales of North India and Pakistan. The term literally means ‘flying bedstead’ or ‘flying cot’ but in folklore the term is used more expansively to cover any flying vehicle.
Dragonflies have been an integral part of urban biodiversity for a long time and till their habitat was safe and their numbers sufficient, they kept the population of disease causing mosquitoes to the minimum. With drastic changes in our city, the deadly cases of dengue and malaria are on the rise. Moreover, they are also good indicators of clean and pure air and water telling us about the health of plants in monsoons.
JACKET 6- LADYBUG:
These little insects being one of the few insects which is not feared but rather invited, in nature they act as predators of garden pests like aphids. In Indian folklore, ladybugs are seen as a source of happiness and prosperity. They are believed to bring blessings to households they visit.
A set of four stamps on Ladybird Beetles was released in 2017 in India. None of these are truly native species of Indian origin, though over 600 species of Ladybird Beetles are known from India.
Kamadeva, the God of love in Hindu mythology who is traditionally worshipped on Vasant Panchami, carries a special bow made of sugar cane, and the string is soaked in honey, with a line of honey bees.
Goddess Bhramari — an incarnation of Shakti– is known as “the Goddess of bees’’.
She is associated with bees, hornets and wasps, which cling to her body. She is famously known for slewing the demon Arunasura. In this battle, goddess Bhramari sent out her bees, hornets, wasps, flies, termites, mosquitos and spiders to destroy the demon; the insects then returned to Bhramari and clung on her again. It is said that Bhramari Devi resides inside the heart chakra and emits the buzzing sound of Bees, called ‘Bhramaram’. Likewise, the sound of a Bee humming was emulated in Vedic chants and the humming of Bees represented the essential sound of the universe all across India.
Insects have influenced language, literature, folklore, music, art, religion, and other leisure pursuits as well as how they have fed human intellect and emotion. In addition, the melodic noises that insects make, along with other qualities, have inspired a great deal of composers and songwriters to use them in both music and film. To not just read and see them in only books one day, we must celebrate them in all areas of life whether art, design or science.
CITATION:
Beetles
https://india.mongabay.com/2021/03/explainer-the-beetles-that-roll-dung-and-follow-the-stars/
https://www.speakingtree.in/blog/spiritual-significance-of-teej-indian-festival
https://artandculturalaffairshry.gov.in/teej-festival/
https://www.mdpi.com/2075-4450/13/12/1117
https://www.handmakers.in/blogs/news/indian-art-lac-bangles
https://www.tatatrusts.org/our-stories/article/from-lac-to-lakhs
For knowing about new discoveries:
Moths
https://anitamultitasker.wordpress.com/2022/03/05/metaphors-for-the-lover-in-songs/
To know all about the Indian Moths: https://www.mothsofindia.org/node/14
Butterfly
https://indiasendangered.com/7-spectacular-butterflies-of-india-photos/
https://www.ifoundbutterflies.org/WPA-protected-species
Ants
Insects in the Religions of India- RON CHERRY AND HARDEV SANDHU
Dragonfly
https://indianexpress.com/article/parenting/learning/dragonfly-natures-flying-machine-5287850/
Bees
https://www.indiaforums.com/forum/topic/3810911
Influence of Insects on Art and Culture- Sudeshna Ray
IMAGE SOURCES:
Mind Your Breathing: The Yogi’s Handbook with 37 Pranayama Exercises
